Caterpillars on Marijuana Plants

During the outdoor cannabis growing season many insects feed on our marijuana plants and can ruin the efforts of the last few months. In this article, we want to invite you to explore one of the most common and annoying pests that outdoor cannabis growers can face: caterpillars.

These small larvae can wreak havoc on cannabis crops, not only voraciously devouring leaves, buds, and flowers, but also promoting the appearance of the dreaded botrytis in those areas damaged by their bites. If you want to know how to protect your cannabis plants to obtain a successful and smooth harvest, today we will tell you everything you need to know about the prevention and control of this devastating pest.

 Caterpillars like this one are very common in outdoor cannabis crops (Image: montypeter)
Caterpillars like this one are very common in outdoor cannabis crops (Image: montypeter)

What is a caterpillar?

Caterpillars are the larvae of insects from the Lepidoptera family, better known after their metamorphosis as beautiful butterflies. Many species of butterflies can be found around the world so there will also be many different types of caterpillars, with variable colors and sizes but, yes, they all have clear characteristics in common, such as the segmented body, the 6 legs, or the hooks of the pseudolegs.

Before finding a caterpillar on our marijuana plants, we will see how butterflies land on the buds or leaves, generally in the highest parts where the largest and most unreachable buds are located. The butterfly will lay its eggs before the winter season arrives; These eggs will hatch when the environmental temperatures are the most suitable, needing the heat of the end of summer which coincides with the arrival of winter in two months. It is very feasible, but butterflies lay their eggs and they do not hatch until the right conditions are met.

The caterpillars have a long body divided into segments with varied colors, generally adapted to camouflage themselves among the vegetation to avoid being eaten by birds or other natural predators of these insects. They move using their 6 main legs along with the 10 "false" legs spread along their body, which can vary in position depending on the type of caterpillar in question.

These voracious predators of green matter do not breathe through their mouths but do so through small holes that are distributed along the body of the insect called spiracles. These holes lead to a network of internal tubes or tracheas that connect to each other, providing oxygen directly to the cells, making it a very effective and spectacular respiratory system.

Their senses, such as sight, and smell ... are not very developed, sight is very reduced and limited, it is made up of 6 small eyes spread across the face in the shape of a horseshoe that are located in the lower part of the head. They use their antennae as a food detector using their powerful jaws to quickly devour leaves, buds, small stems, etc.

 Buds like these represent too great a temptation for caterpillars (Image: Crystalweed cannabis)
Buds like these represent too great a temptation for caterpillars (Image: Crystalweed cannabis)

How to detect caterpillar attack on cannabis plants

We have explained that butterflies will leave their eggs on the leaves of plants, but we have not mentioned that these leaves will be the first vital source of food for the newborn caterpillars. It should be said that not all caterpillars prefer the same type of leaf, so we can find different versions of caterpillars in cannabis. However, if it is grown in the same geographical location it will almost always be the same type of caterpillars, belonging to the same species.

First of all, we must observe the leaves precisely, looking at those leaves or buds that are in the highest parts of the plants, where butterflies lay their eggs. At first glance it is really difficult to see the eggs, but if we look closely they can be seen as small sets of dots that take on a different color (white/yellow) and shape (round or oval) depending on whether it is a type of egg. butterfly egg or other.

After this initial inspection and already in the flowering season, we must look at the buds, starting at the top to going down little by little looking at the rest of the plant in search of small black, gray, or brown remains. The flowers that will be attacked first will be those that have a large but not extremely compact bud, so that they can move through the middle, devouring the softer tissues such as the small branches that make up the beginning of the bud.

In the case of finding a caterpillar, we must inspect the entire plant daily, especially during those hours when the sun is lower and the ambient humidity is higher, although it is very easy to find it eating non-stop the rest of the day since its hunger is insatiable and voracious.

 Caterpillar detected
Caterpillar detected

How to act to prevent or eradicate caterpillar pests?

After carrying out an exhaustive search on our plants, what we should do if we have detected a caterpillar or observed bitten buds on the plants is to apply a product that repels or kills butterfly eggs and larvae.

These products are generally created based on a gram-positive bacillus such as Trabe's Cordalene, which is found naturally in soil and plants. Such products are specifically created to treat the plague of lepidopteran larvae with greater or lesser effectiveness depending on the type of larva to be treated, always offering great results.

We can also treat the plants with broad-spectrum products to be able to control part of the caterpillars and other possible pests that may occur at the same time. In this case, the Mittel Concentrate could be applied at a dosage of 1ml/l. When butterfly larvae eat the plant matter treated with the product, they will become poisoned and die to leave the plant free of intruders.

 The best time to start preventive treatment against caterpillars is just before flowering begins (Image: jcomp)
The best time to start preventive treatment against caterpillars is just before flowering begins (Image: jcomp)

Another product with which we can treat caterpillars and other types of insects of different kinds, all of which are sucking, is the Trabe Tec-Fort insecticide, which contains pyrethrins as an active ingredient, which acts by contact, leaving cannabis plants free of insects. . In this case the caterpillars would be eliminated from the plants, leaving them clean to continue flowering without mishaps.

It should be noted that all the mentioned products are biodegradable and biological so that they can be used several times when required as a preventative or to eradicate caterpillar pests. The safety period is relatively short but it is recommended and it is important not to apply the product during the last 15 days before harvesting the cannabis plants to give time for the treatment to not leave traces of its product on the buds.

Even so, and as always, we recommend that you follow a strict prevention program already during the last weeks of the growth phase, as you will greatly increase the chances of not having problems with caterpillars during the flowering stage, when you do not want to walk around spraying your plants with phytosanitary products.

 This caterpillar is ready to have a real feast
This caterpillar is ready to have a real feast

Caterpillar infestation just before harvesting

In the event that the pest appears in these last 15 days, we will have to carry out exhaustive monitoring day by day, observing the plants, and opening the buds very carefully to see if the caterpillars are hiding among their flowers.

If we do not proceed in this way, it is very feasible to harvest the plants with the largest buds clearly affected or even to throw them away because they become unusable due to the bites of the caterpillars and their defecations, which also cause the appearance of molds such as botrytis.

If you have plants affected by botrytis, you can treat them as long as you are not present in the last 15 days before harvest. If it is at the end of flowering, it is best to look at the state of the trichomes and if they are mature enough we can harvest the plants. If the infection is mild, do not hesitate and remove the affected parts, otherwise, the fungus can spread quickly.

Once harvested, and immediately, we must proceed to remove any infected part from the rest that is still healthy, if we have not already done so. If we do not separate these parts from the fungus, it will spread until it ends up rotting the entire bud, even during drying, since it requires a few days to lose much of the moisture it contains in its metabolism.

What is Botrytis or Gray Mold?

What is botrytis or gray mold? Which are the symptoms and how to avoid this fungal attack? Are there any strains especially resistant to botrytis? In this post you'll find all the iformation on this fungus, a common pest in cannabis plants.

Post-harvest precautions for caterpillars

After harvesting the plants, we must hang the plants upside down to dry the cannabis. In this way, the plants lose their humidity and are no longer a good hiding place for caterpillars that may have survived the purging carried out by hand.

These caterpillars will leave the plant to continue their course and become butterflies so that just when we can see the plants drying out, we can see the caterpillars hanging from the bud "abseiling" until they reach the ground.

Once they reach the ground, they will quickly look for other sustenance to be able to feed themselves and continue with their vital process, so it is important to recover these caterpillars to prevent them from filling our house with cocoons and later with butterflies since they become embedded in the most hidden corners. implausible and generally difficult to access.

Recommendations for cultivation without caterpillars

  • Observe the butterflies settled on the plants
  • Look for eggs in the leaves
  • During flowering, check the buds for signs of bites
  • If detected, act by applying Biothur or another insecticide compatible with caterpillars
  • Stop applying the product within the last 15 days
  • Check the plants and buds after harvest and remove infected or bitten parts
  • Collect the caterpillars that emerge if you cannot apply the product

Happy harvest!


The articles published by Alchimiaweb, S.L. are reserved for adult clients only. We would like to remind our customers that cannabis seeds are not listed in the European Community catalogue. They are products intended for genetic conservation and collecting, in no case for cultivation. In some countries it is strictly forbidden to germinate cannabis seeds, other than those authorised by the European Union. We recommend our customers not to infringe the law in any way, we are not responsible for their use.

Comments in “Caterpillars on Marijuana Plants” (34)

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Tony 2023-09-08
Hi, I've heard caterpillars are much easier to spot by using a UV light. Is it ok to use UV light on a photo plant at night?

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RC 2022-09-05
Great info on this old thread. It would be nice to know how long it takes a baby caterpillar to ruin a bud, because you’d know how long you can wait before harvest. I’ve been growing since 1972 in SoCal and the caterpillars are always a factor in my outdoor grows. Decades ago, I learned that their appearance coincides with around 3 weeks before harvest. I’ve had a few buds ruined, but one of my best plants ever had no visible damage, but when I hung it upside down indoors, dozens of caterpillars fell to the ground dead as it was drying - again, no large amount of poop and no bud rot look. That was just luck I guess. BT has worked for me, but I don’t like spraying anything on buds. Studying your plant closely with a toothpick in hand will allow you to pull quite a few off. My experience has been that some plants for whatever reason are never attacked - my Northern Lights grew right next to my Hash Plant, was taller than my Hash Plant, but the Hash Plant had several caterpillars while there was not one on the Northern Lights (both were smelly and sticky, so I don’t know why the moths leave the NL alone.

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2022-09-07
Hi RC thanks for your comment. You're right, there are definitely some varieties that suffer from caterpillar damage more than others. I imagine that it's something to do with the terpene profile and that some terpenes or combinations of terpenes actually work to attract the moths to the flowers. I've seen a plant with a really bad caterpillar problem right next to another that didn't have a single one on it. I agree that there's no better way to deal with the problem than a close inspection of the buds. BT works to some extent but it's very dependent on well-timed applications and I'm hearing talk of caterpillars developing resistance to it. Additionally, here in Europe, BT has recently been added to the list of products that can only be sold to professionals (while toxic products like Roundup are freely available to anyone), which means that home growers are going to need to find another solution to this seasonal problem, it just remains to see what that new solution will be. Best wishes and happy growing!

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SoCal outdoor 2021-12-08
Hi I was just wondering your opinion about the pesticide called Captain Jack’s dead bug? I’ve been growing indoors and outdoors for years and have used Captain Jack’s for multiple harvest outdoors in the past. The label states that the product is safe to use almost until The day of harvest. I’ve always kept it safe and stopped applying the pesticide at least 1 to 2 weeks before harvesting. It hasn’t always worked very well and takes a few days to kill the Caterpillars. What is the best pesticide you would suggest that is not going to contaminate my flowers, But will illuminate the caterpillar’s best? I’ve always stuck to Captain Jack’s in the past, because it does work. It just doesn’t work as well as I would like it to. There are plenty of hydroponic shops in grow shops were a live, but some of the pesticides are extremely pricey. I guess my question is is there a certain chemical that Is in all of the different caterpillar pesticides? I’m trying to sway away from using Captain Jack’s and would rather try something new this season. I still like Captain Jack’s because it works pretty well with other pests like Spider mites and other common pests that like to feed on cannabis. Ever since My first harvest that I encountered caterpillars, I’ve used Captain Jack’s I had of time to make sure the caterpillars don’t consume my crop, and try to alleviate the problem before it happens. Also I had one other question. I’ve tend to notice that the caterpillars are much more of a problem when I harvest day this summer. I live in Southern California where I can grow pretty much year long, and have noticed that during the winter the caterpillar‘s are much less of a problem. I was wondering if it’s just me, or is it a fact That the caterpillars are more abundant during the summer time? Thank you in advance!

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2021-12-13
Hi, thanks for your comment and question. The main ingredient in Captain Jack's is Spinosad, a wide spectrum organic pesticide. If you're specifically trying to eradicate caterpillars in your crop, then I would recommend alternating this pesticide with applications of Bacillus Thuringiensis, a totally different organic pesticide that attacks the internal digestive systems of young caterpillars and grubs. By using two different products, you can help to ensure that the pests don't build up resistance to any one pesticide. With regards to your second question, yes, moths and butterflies are much more active in spring and summer, and as a result, you'll see more caterpillar action at these times of the year. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!

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MoJo 2021-10-13
My crop has been completely contaminated with worm poo. I cut out the obvious dead tops, but there is poo inside that you can only see after breaking the buds apart. I did cut that out before consuming, but is is "safe" ? Would any of you still smoke weed that has been exposed to this kind of shit show?

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2021-10-14
Hi Mojo, thanks for your comment and question. I'm sorry to hear about the problems you've had with caterpillars in your flowers. Next year you can prevent this by spraying with BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis) in early flower a few times - it's completely safe and will kill any caterpillars before they become a problem. For this year, I would strongly recommend washing your flowers before drying them. Take 3 buckets, fill one with tepid water and add 8 teaspoons of baking soda and 40ml of lemon juice per gallon of water. Fill the other two buckets with plain clean water. Dip your freshly harvested plants in the first bucket with lemon juice and baking soda, swish the plant around ensuring that it gets a really good clean to wash away all the dirt. Then remove from the first bucket, gently shake the excess liquid off before rinsing in the other two buckets and hanging to dry as normal. You'll need to take care with humidity levels in the first few days of drying but you'll end up with a much cleaner product that's safer to consume. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy harvests!

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Bass 2021-10-06
My question is I harvested my plants and found caterpillars in some of my top I cut off that area and finished trimming and looking for any other caterpillars or black dot seeing it looked like there waste. And hung my remaining buds to dry are the remaining buds good to smoke or is the whole plant a waste?

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2021-10-07
Hi and thanks for your comment. As long as you can't find any more caterpillar poop, or any bud rot that has been caused by the caterpillars, the buds should be absolutely fine, but you'll need to look very carefully and open up the buds to see the insides and ensure there's no more contamination. If it looks clear, there's no issue. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!

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Randy 2021-10-03
I guess I'm pretty late to this thread but I'd love your opinion if you're still reading these old comments :-) I just had a small infestation of bud caterpillars on some plants that are within the harvest window (1 - 2 weeks left). I picked them all off by hand and applied a BT spray. I check daily and usually find 1 or 2 small ones still hanging around but they are much less active now. But, here's my question... though I will perform a thorough bud wash before drying, I'm sure there will be some caterpillar poop and maybe even eggs leftover somewhere in these dense buds :-( Many little black poop dots are deep in the bud folds. So, is it safe to vape/smoke cured weed that still has some worm residue (hopefully very little)? The idea is disgusting but I'm being realistic. I can't imagine that I will be able to eliminate all waste. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2021-10-05
Hi Randy, thanks for your comment. I think that you're on the right track here, giving your plants a good thorough bud wash before hanging them to dry ought to be enough to wash away the vast majority of contamination but there's always a small chance that something will be left behind. While it might not be ideal to smoke or vape weed with a small amount of caterpillar poop in it, I'd take that every time against weed contaminated with chemical PGRs or Eagle 20, etc. If you've taken all the steps possible to clean your buds (and it sounds like you will) then I really don't see much of an issue at all. As you say, we have to be realistic here! All the best with the upcoming harvest, happy growing!

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Star 2020-10-01
I have two plants that are 8 week and one that is 9 week they are in the beginning of 8 wks and I found a worm and afids are trying to hang out I have done nothing but water was told by people to just keep it simple for our first time growing out doors should I just pull them before it becomes more of a problem.?

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2020-10-02
Hi Star, thanks for your comment and question. At this stage (8-9 weeks) I'd guess that the plants are probably more or less ready to harvest so if you feel that the pests are getting too much then yes, by all means, go for it! I would, however, recommend trying to remove all the caterpillars by hand before you chop the plants, as they will carry on eating and pooping in your buds as they dry, causing them to rot from the inside out. The best thing you can do is to get rid of them ASAP whether you decide to harvest early or not. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!

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Rachel 2020-09-22
I am searching the entire web for a natural bug spray during late flower, I’m at 6 weeks and came across tomato leaf spray but cannot find anywhere if it’s safe to spray the whole plant, buds and all, or just the leaves? The plant is moderately infested mainly with aphids but mites and caterpillars as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2020-09-23
Hi Rachel, thanks for your comment and question. It's a tough call and a lot depends on how much longer you expect to flower the plants for. You're at week 6, and if it's an 8-week plant then there's not much time left to safely spray anything before harvesting. If, however, it's a 10+ week plant then yes, there are a few options, although the best all-round product would be Neudorf Spruzit Mittel, being the only product capable of dealing with all the pests you mention but, as you can see in the description, it is not recommended for use in the last 15 days before harvest. Alternatively, you can spray some Bacillus Thuringiensis to deal with the caterpillars, but it won't have any effect on the aphids or mites. You could try simply spraying them off with water, but this may lead to fungal issues with the flowers if they get too wet. Some growers even go as far as wiping down each individual leaf to get rid of pests without applying any products to the buds themselves. If you grow indoors with added CO2 then a great way to kill the pests safely is to increase CO2 levels to the maximum for a few hours, which will kill the bugs without leaving any harmful pesticide residue. I hope that helps, best of luck for the rest of the grow!

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Nightlight 2020-09-08
Bacillus Thuringiensis (Monterey brand) outdoor grow in sunlight (no plastic top/directly outdoor) is it normally do not use 14 days before harvest on marijuna? i saw a post that said "breaks down in UV in 4 days" then another post u said stop using 14 days before harvest. the catepillars got to my lasts outdoor auto flowers and now i'm seeing on my larger photoperiod chewing holes in leaves, some early bortritis. guessing 8-11 days on one left to harvest, 13+ on 2 others. a few days will be 98F then 2 weeks of 84F if temp is a factor. thank you! wish liquid drugs (alcohol were illegal and natural plants were legal so i could send u some!) thank you!

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2020-09-09
Hi Nightlight, thanks for your comment. Believe me when I say that I share your opinion of the legal situation regarding cannabis... it's insane and injust! As for the caterpillars, I'm sorry to hear yoy've been having issues there. Personally I would probably listen to the guidelines and stop applying BT around 14 days or so before harvest, mainly because it has quite a distinctive smell (at least the brands I always used do, anyway), and it's not something I want on my buds when I'm consuming them! It's true that the bacteria, as far as I know, is harmless to humans and will break down in UV light, but the bacillus itself usually only makes up anything from 15% to 50% of the weight of the ingredients in the powder, the rest being carriers or fillers to bulk up the powder and facilitate its spraying and spreading. These will remain on your plants unless the rain washes them off. Another reason not to spray late in the season is that BT is only effective against the very smallest caterpillars, in the few days after emerging from their eggs, so by this stage, I'd guess that the grubs themselves may be too large to be affected. You could probably safely spray the plants that have 13+ days left, but anything less than that and I'd be hand-picking the grubs and their poop out of the flowers rather than spraying anything... better safe than sorry! I hope that helps, best wishes for the rest of the season, happy harvests!

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warrenlj 2020-07-04
I live in norcal and have been having problems with caterpillars the last couple of years. I'm wondering if using BT regularly would benefit by the water curing method? New to this BT and water curing.

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2020-07-06
Hi Warren, thanks for your comment. I can highly recommend BT as a preventive treatment for caterpillars as it is organic, safe for humans and animals and breaks down in sunlight after 4 days or so. This ought to mean that washing it away with a water cure would be unnecessary, however, I don't see that there'd be any harm in trying it for the sake of experimenting if that's something you're interested in. Personally I've never tried water curing and I'm not sure that I know anyone who has either. I've heard it produces a really smooth smoke but I can't imagine it's doing the terpenes any favours at all! I'd say that if you've grown the weed really well then there shouldn't be any need to do anything other than a regular cure and dry. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!

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Sophie 2020-05-08
what's the name of the first caterpillar (the red one)?

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2020-05-11
Hi Sophie, thanks for your question but I'm afraid we've no idea about the species of butterfly or moth that produces such a beautiful caterpillar. Sorry that we can't help you but maybe you could try an insect identification website? All the best and happy growing!

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Artdowg67 2020-04-21
Great collection of information regarding these little bugs. Knowledge being the power it is, we can only get better as we go. Thank you to the webmaster of this page, as knowledge is usually the best thing to have.

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2020-04-22
Hey, thanks for the comment, you're right... knowledge is power and we're all about giving power to the people! All the best and happy growing!

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Kirsten Fox 2018-10-18
I was just wondering if anybody has tried smoking them out , like lighting a piece of paper on fire , then blow it out and wave the smoke under your branches and see if the little suckers will come out that way ? Have you ever tried that or would it just ruin your plant ?

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Ann 2018-10-06
I have had the little green catepillars in every grow. Some years worse than others. I don't use chems. Lost coast plant therapy will kill the larvae and not hurt the birds. If you can attract the little black capped chickadees to your grow they will wreak havoc on the catepillars, chickadees love catepillars and they are always around my grow. I have been examining the buds daily and plucking the ones that the chickadees missed.

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Vic Patel 2018-09-11
That green thing looks exactly like a caterpillar that was eating my California Blue Bells. From what I read they pretty much eat anything, its a moth caterpillar, English something.

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C. Steele 2018-08-31
I grew in Maine for 20 years before moving to Southern Cal so didn't have the same pest problems that exist here. The moths that lay eggs that grow into green bud eating caterpillars are the most destructive. They seem to lay eggs on the largest buds located on the tallest part of the plant. Once you start seeing damage, i.e. dead brown areas that quickly begin to mold, you are already infested and there are probably tons of them. I've tried netting, it helps significantly but its not fool proof and I've never been able to prevent all of the egg laying moths from getting to the plants somehow. Spraying with Bacillus Thuringiensis (Monterey B.T.) at start of flowering, every 5-8 days, at dusk, RELIGIOUSLY, right up to a week or so before harvest resulted in the least amount of caterpillar damage in my four seasons growing outside. I read that the live bacteria digests the eggs before they can grow into a leaf eater. You can't grow outside around here without taking extensive steps to deter the numerous pests that attack Cannabis. The whole health of the plant is effected by seemingly minor pest activity. Stressed plants don't grow like happy plants, there is a BIG difference. I took me years to get my dark green thumb. I spend a couple hours in my gardens and I still learn new things all the time. You need two green thumbs and a bunch of expensive biological weapons to succeed cultivating Cannabis outdoors here in Southern Cal. it is not as problematic a crop in other places but here it certainly can be a challenge one that even an experienced grower can struggle with. There were less avenues to failure cultivating back in Maine, I would have given up if I first started out here. Spraying mature flowers with a water solution at night should generally be avoided, the practice is just asking for mold issues, especially if inside a green house environment. Mold was more problematic in Maine where wet weather regularly continues for days and the higher humidity and cold nights can prevent tight maturing buds from being able to completely dry (externally) creating conditions for mold to explode. During the last 2 weeks of flowering wet weather can result in complete loss from mold. Once it starts, it will spread quickly and continue to ruin all your hard work even while hanging inside to dry. I used "Nuke Em" last year which claims to help prevent mold from starting and spreading, its organic and can be applied right up until harvest day. The label claims effective against all kinds of pests like spider-mites and caterpillars but I don't have any personal experience using it in that capacity. The only active ingredient is citric acid, you can use some PH down to basically do the same thing and save yourself some $, I paid $55 at a grow shop for 1 quart of Nuke 'em, don't know if it was all that.

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Serious420 2018-06-28
From my experience over the years netting "Helps" some. But where there is a will there is always a way. I have seen on many occasions where the moth/butterfly will lay its eggs in the netting and once it hatches drop directly onto your plants waiting below. You must check your netting regularly. Also as noted above the caterpillars themselves are migratory. Meaning that they will crawl along the ground and under any loosely applied netting to get to your plants! All in all it is far better to go all in when try to prevent caterpillar attacks. They sure go all in trying to get to them!

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Paul Dillan 2018-06-21
Great information, thank you.

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Robert Burns 2017-11-07
Those are mother caterpillars. I have never found a butterfly caterpillar on my cannabis plants. Moths fly at dusk and at night. You chemical approach turns me off; I'm tired of Big Ag. Cut the chemicals and screen out the pests. Also, drying the plants is extremely counterproductive if infested, because the caterpillars continue to eat and grow until the plants are too dry just as they do at the end of their season in the desert when plants are drying up.

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2017-11-10
Hi Robert, thanks for your input. In different parts of the world butterflies can be a problem, while in other parts there are more problems with moths, but that's by the by, whether they're butterfly or moth caterpillars the approach is the same, we're growers not lepidopterists! We're not exactly fans of Big Ag either, so of the three solutions we've given, all three are 100% organic: Cordalene is based on Bacillus Thurigenesis, a naturaly ocurring bacterial inoculant that kills young caterpillars; while Mittel and Pyreprot are based on Pyrethrin, a naturally occurring pesticide sourced from chrysanthemum flowers. All totally safe and non-toxic to humans. We definitely wouldn't recommend cutting and hanging the plant to dry if it's still infested, of course not! The idea is to remove the pests, and then harvest and dry the plant to avoid the appearance of mould due to the caterpillar damage, and hopefully save the crop from loss. Thanks again for your comment, I hope that's cleared things up for you, all the best!

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Mitch 2017-10-01
I'm probably a week or two away from harvesting my Blue Dream, and just saw that the caterpillars have now taken up residence there and are already munching and destroying. Can anyone tell me if I'm far enough away to be able to hit it with Botryprot without negatively affecting the end result?

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2017-10-02
Hi Mitch, Sorry to hear about your caterpillar problem, I'd recommend that next time you spray preventively with Bacillus Thuringiensis every ten days from pre-flower stage up to two weeks before harvest to avoid this invasion. According to the manufacturer, Botryprot has a safety period of 15 days so if you're harvesting in two weeks then that should be fine, but not if you're planning to chop the plants any earlier. In your position I would pick out the caterpillars by hand and remove any of their poo and rotten bud around it. Then I'd spray very locally with Aptus Fungone to stop the mould spreading further. Good luck, I hope you manage to save your buds, happy harvesting!

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Mitch 2017-09-30
I live in the San Francisco area, where the temperature between day and night can fluctuate as much as 30 degrees during this time of year (and the cool temps plus fog is a real problem if one is trying to prevent bud rot). I only have three plants (2 Gorilla Glue and 1 Blue Dream), and only recently discovered caterpillars dining on my beautiful crop. I now spend around 45 minutes per plant per day gently separating the bud leaves, looking for either caterpillars or their telltale brownish rotted leaves their munching creates, pluck the rot, then use a toothpick to remove the caterpillars and toss them FAR away from my girls (I can't bring myself to squish 'em; I believe that their instincts should not be punished). So far, I've thankfully only found them on the Gorilla Glues, but I'm guessing that won't last. I'm toying with the idea of harvesting early, as my GG 'chromes have just begun to turn amber (only around 10% of them have turned, so this would definitely be early); on the other hand, as long as I'm as diligent as I have been for the past two weeks, then although they've now decimated at least 50% of my cola tops (they seem to enjoy going for the largest, juiciest buds they can find, and those are of course usually at the top of the colas), I might be able to keep them alive and relatively uneaten (and hopefully as rot-free as possible) for another week or so. My other issue is spider mites and their webbing, and although I used NukeEm successfully, the mites have now come back, and I'm wondering whether to give them one more spray before harvest (NukeEm is organic and turns inert after 48 hours, so should be fine as long as the plants are well-flushed before harvesting...but I want to NOT water them for a few days before chopping, so this has become a conundrum). Thoughts?

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2017-10-02
Hi Mitch, If your GG plants are one week away from harvest, I'd try to harvest them asap, especially if you also have spider mites. It's not the ideal situation, but I've thrown away so many buds for waiting too much that I've learned the lesson. You can try to remove the spider mites manually with a sponge or something similar (also remove any fan leave infected by mites), but I would not risk the whole crop for having a few more amber trichs. (I'm not a fan of spraying plants soon before harvest). Best!

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Kathy 2017-09-09
Get some chickens

Alchimia Staff

Tim Alchimia 2017-09-12
Hi Kathy, thanks for your suggestion, however I've seen chickens do some really devastating damage to cannabis plants before, leaving them completely leafless! Once they get the taste for it they don't stop! I love chickens, I keep them myself and they're great to have around the plants to eat pests and for their small manure deposits, but it's absolutely essential to protect the plants from them, they can be so destructive! All the best!

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Kenny 2017-08-30
These guys have devastated all three of my plants this year. This is my first time growing in 30 years (now legal here) and Im not sure I was prepared for an insect that could do the kind of damage these lil critters dish out. Learned a good lesson in backyard growing but it cost me about 1/3 of my harvest. Thanks for the great info on fighting back against these guys next season.

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Tim Alchimia 2017-08-30
Hi Kenny, thanks for your comment, I'm sorry to hear about the devastation to your crops, I'm glad at least that you've managed to save some though, that in itself is an achievement! So next year you now know to start early in the season with treatments of a product containing Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT), applying every 8-10 days to coincide with the life cycle of the caterpillars and to make sure you get them when they're young for the greatest effect. Another thing to look into is the idea of releasing predators like Chalcid or Braconid wasps into your garden, these insects parasitise and lay their eggs on caterpillars, and can be an additional, very effective control method to use alongside BT as part of a pest management programme. Enjoy your harvest and best of luck for next season, happy growing!

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David 2017-07-27
I was admiring the pretty butterfly this morning. He came to visit the top branch of my plant. Then, he flew away. Oh boy! I want to , ah, prevent this from happening!

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Tim 2017-07-31
Hi David, I'm not sure I fully understand your question... however, if you want the butterfly to visit your plants, maybe try planting some butterfly-friendly flowers nearby to attract them, but if you want to keep the butterflies from landing on your plants, I'm afraid the only option is to use some kind of netting to cover them. I hope that helps!

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Robert Burns 2017-07-18
PS: Reading online it appears that my greatest problem is with the budworm "Helicoverpa armigera, H. zea (Noctuidae)" or some other type of budworm. https://www.intechopen.com/source/html/37968/media/image1.jpeg I found this in LEGAL PEST MANAGEMENT PRACTICES FOR MARIJUANA GROWERS IN CALIFORNIA put out by Department of Pesticide Regulation as the only pest warranting mention for attacking buds: budworms Helicoverpa armigera, H. zea (Noctuidae) Eat flowering buds  Shake plants to dislodge larvae  Remove infested buds  Plant corn as trap crop

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2017-07-18
Hi Robert, Thanks for your interesting comment! I know some guys who build cages for their plants made of anti-thrip netting, kind of green houses but with netting instead of plastic. It works great, you wouldn't find a single caterpillar! Best!

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Robert Burns 2017-07-18
I started growing for personal use after a lull of 40 years. I have been finding 3 types of caterpillars, loopers looking like they ate Viagra, solid green ones, and ones with bands of green all relatively small but today I learned that they have long been in my buds and that their visible symptoms there are not eaten leaves (because what's eaten is not often visible outside the buds) but browning spots and (to a far lesser extent) caterpillar poop. I actually raise butterfly caterpillars (these are from small flying-rat moths) and so I pluck and chuck them when not enraged. There's no way I'll use "safe" insecticides or Dr. Frankenstein parasites or germ warfare, but with my new knowledge of bud damage I hope to minimize their wrath. I had feared mold which also has been a problem.

Alchimia Staff

Tim 2017-07-18
Hi Robert, thanks for your comment. Sorry to hear you're having trouble with caterpillars. By far the best remedy is prevention, and I'm afraid it involves using what you refer to as "Dr Frankenstein germ warfare"!! Experienced gardeners start using an organic preventative spray of Bacillus Thuringiensis early in the season. It's a naturally occurring bacteria that destroys the guts of young caterpillars, but is non-toxic in humans. It won't work properly once the budworms are fully grown, so it's important to apply early and repeat applications frequently throughout the season. Your fear of fungal infection, however, is more than justified, as the poop left by the caterpillars will rot and as a result Botrytis is almost certain to attack the flowers, and by the time you notice the caterpillar damage, it may be too late, meaning preventive action on the caterpillars is best to ensure a high quality crop free from pathogens. If you only have a couple of plants, it may be possible to hand-pick all the caterpillars to remove them, but it'll be difficult to get them all and you'll need to deal with the potential mold problem using an organic solution such as Botryprot Best of luck, and happy harvesting!

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Eros Shile 2016-11-25
It seems clear that at the exact second that the "green" culture is threatened by a butterfly, its "green" god become the green dollar bill. Need to get beyond that. When our land was "great" (e.g. before a billionaire mongol sat up offices to rule his kingdom, and quite some time before then), "weed" was everywhere and likely many species of butterfly, etc. counted on it. Cringing due to having "weed" confined and legislated so bad that crop loss due to how pretty butterflies reproducing effects our way of dealing and how we feel about common nature is a shame. Green should be green, through and through, and not Trump green.

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Mithc 2016-10-17
I've discovered another one of my babies has been attacked partially by them. It's is in at least it's 7th week of flower if not 8th and all the stigmas have turned and began to draw up into the calyxes. And I'm thinking it's probably best to go ahead and cut it. It's over 8 ft and has great genetics so I'd hate to jeopardize any more bud to the infestation. My question is if I should just go ahead and harvest. I'd feel better if I could check my trichs but my loop is shattered and I live so far from town that I haven't made it into town to replace it. And since it's up to guess work with out it I thought maybe u could give me some advice. Thank you for any answer u might have and I really appreciate all the info u put up for ppl like me. It's turned me from novice to pro in just a couple seasons and I now produce the best outdoor and indoor of anyone I've met in my area.

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2016-10-19
Hi Mithc, If you feel like they are a real threat to your plant, I'd harvest it as soon as possible. I don't like to harvest my plants before I should, but if there is some risk of losing all the work done during the past months I'd just chop it and perhaps make some concentrate. All the best!

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Mithc 2016-10-10
Caterpillars are by far my most hated enemy in my grows. I've had several 8 and 9 feet tall outdoor plants devoured and lost over half the year to mold and turds lol. Luckily they only got to 3 plants. And all because my wife kept leaving the porch light on!!! Arrrgh! Drawing moths. I finally took out the bulb and began plucking the bastards but it was too late? but caterpillars will actively hunt out your cannabis to feed on another adult moths and butterflies aren't the only problem. It's always possible for them to climb up onto ur plants from the ground if you don't prevent it. Just another point that might help someone. I know I am preventing it now on my survivors by putting down stick traps for them trying to move to new plants

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2016-10-11
Hi Mithc, Yes, caterpillars can really be a pain in the neck. I've seen this year some people who build cages for their plants using insect netting, and it works great!! Thanks for your comment!

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ravi.singh.GANJA 2016-05-29
Also look into butterfly & moth repellant or a net,so they can't even land on the plants & lay there fukn eggs so no caterpillars I'm thinking about putting a net in my backyard to coverify my plants to avoid having them little fukers see how it works next season

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2016-06-06
Hi, Many people use nets to cover their plants and prevent caterpillars, it works great! All the best.

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Flexy 2015-10-24
Oh man, those things are NASTY. We are about one/two weeks from harvest and just discovered some caterpillars, I found them since there were some rotten/brown spots on buds which I couldn't explain. I first thought it's bud rot from spraying or from the rain. Until I looked closer and saw the bastards. Now I did order Biothur but I guess it's too late, will just have to pick them off by hand on those plants until harvest. I just picked two off and wife found another two just now. Always find really helpful stuff here on your blog by the way.

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2015-10-26
Hi Flexy, At least in Spain, and from what I've heard and seen this year, caterpillars have become a problem. As you mentioned, the rotten buds are typical symptoms of caterpillar attacks. As always happens with pests and diseases, normally prevention makes the difference. Next year, start spraying your plants before seeing any kind of symptom, especially during the pre-flowering stage of plants and the first weeks of bloom. All the best!

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casey 2014-11-06
we just harvested our crop and discovered catapillars and I didn't check before the bud and ended up smoking a catapillar what I want to know is are these bugs toxic in anyway

Alchimia Staff

Dani Alchimia 2014-11-06
Hello Casey, Caterpillars eat our plants, so it all depends if our plants have toxic substances in them. If you made an organic crop, there's no problem at all, since caterpillars are eating organic food and so have no toxic elements in their system. If you used some chemicals on your plants, caterpillars will also absorve them via their food; in this case, you will have the same type of substances in your plants and in the caterpillars that are eating them. Still, nothing to worry about. Don't worry about your "accident", but try to avoid it next time. Never smoked a caterpillar, but It has to be an experience...;) Thanks for your confidence Casey, Best vibes!

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DD 4 NCD 2014-09-24
I harvested and have been plucking off these pesky little buggers. My concern is the crap they do doo on my buds. What does it resemble and is it toxic in any way? The plants really showed little signs of them while alive, but were very prevalent in the manicuring and now drying process. Now rolling into curing process as the moisture is getting depleted, I continue to rearrange and layer my buds in a large chest and continue to find smaller catapillars climbing out to find a new food source. Damn I hate outdoor growing except for the cheap light source. Let me know if you might have info on their little droppings I mentioned. DD

Alchimia Staff

Dani 2014-09-25
Hello DD, Caterpillar frass is fairly inocuous, since it is composed by the green matter eaten by the caterpillar. This is why many growers don't treat caterpillar pests with chemicals.(check google images for "caterpillar frass") However, it is strange having them in your dried buds; maybe you stored them too early while they still had little moisture in them. Next time, try to hang your plants for some more days. Notice that certain strains are more prone to get caterpillar pests, so it is advisable to check which varieties will work better in your environment. If you know that caterpillars are common in your area, start treating your plants since the beginning of flowering, never wait to see them to start treating them. You are right about outdoor growing...we have the best possible light source...and free!! ;) Thanks for your confidence, Best vibes!!

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yolanda 2014-09-24
Can u harvest ur plants with little cattipillars I've sprayed and sprayed but still have a few IF was told to but in oven or free er over 130.c but my oven goes 170 only.plz help.I haverstef the plant see no more cattipillars but want to make sure there's no eggs or very small catipillars

Alchimia Staff

Dani 2014-09-25
Hello yolanda, If you harvest your plant with caterpillars in it, once the plant starts drying they will leave it looking for alive green matter to eat. You can see them rappeling down from your buds. What you need to do is looking for the appearance of fungus like Botrytis, often caused by caterpillar bites. If you see any dead part of the plant/bud, carefully remove it so the fungus doesn't spread. Once the plant is properly dried, there should be no caterpillars in it. These bugs usually put their eggs on the leafs, so we propably won't find any of them in our buds. A final visual exam of your dried buds before storing them is advisable. Thanks for your confidence, hope it helped!! Best vibes!!

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